Friday, January 29, 2010

It's 2010. I will blog about wine more.

So my "Harvest is over!" post was two months ago already, but since then I've bought a house, moved into it, went back to New Jersey for Christmas, came back to the Bay Area, and went right back to work. But now I will try to start back up again.

Back in December I applied for the UC Davis Extension Winemaking Certificate Program. I was accepted, and am currently taking Introduction to Winemaking. Some of it is redundant, as I currentlywork in wine production, but it's helping to fill in the gaps.

I actually should try to get a lecture in before dinner, so I will leave you with this interesting article from The Cellarist from The San Francisco Chronicle about the current price and consumption trends of CA wine. Enjoy!

Why California wines aren't selling

Brant Ward/The Chronicle, 2007

More deals can be found on Bay Area shelves.

California wineries got a jolt of reality this week when industry analyst Jon Fredrikson delivered some shocking numbers at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento.

While overall U.S. consumption of wine was up slightly, 2.1 percent to 323 million cases, California wine shipments were down around 1.6 percent, to 236 million cases. It was the first drop in 16 years for the California numbers, which have been drumbeat-steady in their growth.

The shift caught a lot of attention, but behind the numbers is a more complicated story. I called to get a bit more insight from Fredrikson, president of research firm Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates, which produces widely used industry reports.

So what's up? People want to drink, but anything that smacks of luxury is not moving.

"It's not an oversupply, its an under-demand. We went through a financial heart attack," Fredrikson told me. "We pushed the reset button in demand. People just scaled down buying patterns. They're still buying wine. We're not like General Motors."

The biggest shift, which he and other analysts have repeatedly described in the past year, is the near-complete stagnation of wine priced more than $20. Fredrikson's data shows that buyers who once spent $20 to $30 have moved lower. The $3-to-$6 category and the $9-to-$12 category have seen the strongest growth. On balance, that rewards the larger California producers and brands — Fredrikson mentioned brands like Sterling, Cupcake and Edna Valley — while smaller labels have more likely been caught in the worst of the downturn. Clearly there's a price sensitivity that wineries will have to adapt to.

"I've never seen it before, how people moved down to much lower price points," he said.

There's more. One major holdup has been the middle part of the three-tier system. As retail sales slowed, distributors started to shrink inventories and require tighter credit. Wine that might have been moved out the winery door probably wasn't making it to the warehouse. And though the very top allocated wines, which occupy a tiny sliver of the market, almost never disclose sales figures, anecdotal stories have been emerging in the past year that indicate virtually no expensive brand has been immune.

At the same time, the industry has been trying to figure out how to discount wine to reduce inventory. Suddenly, top-flight wines are being offered to restaurants to serve by the glass, or sold at lower wholesale prices to provide a higher margin — anything to try and avoid lowering the actual retail price. But that's now happening too, and retailers have started to pass along those discounts. (Of course, it's not unreasonable to believe that some expensive wines needed a price correction.) The alternative, as Fredrikson pointed out, is that spendy wines would get sent off to closeout at sites like Tilsoldout.com. If your local retailer has had an abundance of deals lately, this is probably why.

"There are purists who say you can never discount your brand," Fredrikson said. "That's not realistic in this market."

A couple other points:

  • California's dropping numbers are a bit more complicated than they seem. According to Fredrikson, total shipments from California wine companies were up, mostly because some large companies are buying more bulk imported wine to bottle here. It's the California-grown wines themselves that have been down. If you didn't think global sourcing was a reality, here's a wake-up call.

  • Much of the drop in California wine was overseas. Shipments to the U.S. of California wine were barely down — though in a constantly growing market, that's still grim news — but of the 4 million fewer cases being shipped, 3.2 million were in exports.

Fredrikson's conclusion? It's a very good time to be a wine buyer. The excellent 2007 vintage is coming onto the market, and with the pressure to sell wine and price aggressively, we're going to be able to enjoy ever better prices. We're still drinking plenty; we just don't want to pay as much.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Harvest is over!

The reason I haven't blogged for the past 2 months was because of a little thing in the wine industry we like to call "harvest." Harvest 2009 at Merryvale was quite different than Harvest 2008 at Rosenblum. At Rosenblum, there were two lab interns that took alternating shifts so I worked 10 hour days, Mon-Thurs, coming in occasionally on Fridays for some OT. At Merryvale, during the peak of harvest, I worked 7AM-7:30PM Mon-Fri and put in close to full days on Sundays. It was also a more physically demanding job, as I was doing things like yeast additions which required lugging buckets upon buckets of juice up several flights of stairs. If we were lucky, we got help. In addition to this harvest making me stronger both physically and mentally, I also learned a lot more about the different aspects of wine production. Plus, you have to appreciate a job that makes 10 hour days look short and 8 hour days laughable.

A few pictures from harvest:


The Cellar: Ready and awaiting grapes


Our first Sauvignon Blanc grapes of harvest!


Sean, the Senior Winemaker, and Remi, the Vineyard Manager, getting ready to toast to a successful harvest

Liddy and Andrew sorting Cabernet


So this weekend, November 14-15, was the first weekend I had completely off since August. The funny thing is that once the last grapes come in and get inoculated, harvest comes to an almost screeching halt. At this point, we have a few white wines in barrels still going through slow native fermentation and the remainder of work to be done is checking red wines to see if they've completed their malolactic fermentation. Once Thanksgiving rolls around, the rest of the interns and temporary workers will be gone and we'll be left with a skeleton crew until next harvest. For me, I'll be working until Christmas, taking time off to go home for the holidays, and returning as a lab tech in January. In the off-season, I'm hoping to do a lot more sensory work and get idea of everything else that happens between harvests. It is also my intention to enroll in UC Davis Extension's Winemaking for Distance Learners Certificate Program. I'll be sending my application within the next few weeks with the intention of starting the first intro class at the beginning of January. I'm very much looking forward to being a student again! This time, a student of wine. Doesn't get much better than that.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Some wines from Orin Swift

For a majority of the time I've been at Merryvale Starmont, we've been bottling for a winery called Orin Swift in St. Helena. They only produce 5 wines: one Sauvignon Blanc, one Cabernet Sauvignon, one Zinfandel, and 2 high-end red wine blends. We've been bottling 4 of the 5 wines and in addition to being great wines, they're stylistically some of the cooler bottles I've seen. They're all pretty different, but fit together well as a cohesive piece of art much like a collection of clothes on a runway. The information below is taken directly from the Orin Swift website, and the only thing I have to add to their own descriptions is to watch out! This maybe be no surprise, but these California reds are heavy-hitters in the alcohol department. Great to sit down with before dinner, but they haven't really complimented any meals I've had with them.

Mercury Head


2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Mercury Head Cabernet Sauvignon is named for the silver mercury head dimes that adorn our bottles. This wine is a blend of our two best Cabernet vineyards. We are blessed to buy Cabernet from a handful of great people who are also great farmers who farm great vineyards. We've learned a lot from these guys, and we're proud to count them as friends; Gary Morisoli (Morisoli Vineyard, Rutherford) and Doug Wight (Taplin/Lewelling Vineyard, Saint Helena). The 2006 Mercury Head is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, entirely from these two vineyard sites and is true to its varietal characteristics.

Tasting Notes

The color is deep dark garnet. It has aromas of wild ripe field berries, figs, dust, earth, cranberry, black cherry, spice, dark coffee, chocolate, leather, violets, and currants. The palate is also dominated by dark brooding fruit, pomegranate, plus a little root beer and licorice. It is solid with a firm chewy mid-palate. The finish is long with smooth, w

ell integrated tannins.

The 2006 Mercury Head was aged in French oak barrels (forty per

cent new) for sixteen months. This wine is very drinkable now but will benefit from cellaring in the short term and could rest for up to ten years.

Bottom line is we're extremely pleased with the wine and think you will enjoy it too.

Suggested retail price - $75

2006 Papillon Napa Valley Red Wine

Orin Swift Cellars second release of the Papillon.

The artwork for the label is a photo taken by world renowned photographer and wine lover, Greg Gorman. See more information on Greg Gorman and his photography.

Tasting Notes

Ruby red with notes of campfire, toast and sweet vanilla. On the palate - wild strawberry, rhubarb, and sassafras. And the finish - 30 plus seconds with an impression of cherry pie.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon
27% Merlot
4% Petite Verdot
2% Malbec
2% Cabernet Franc

Suggested retail price - $55


Saldo


2007 California Zinfandel - Inaugural Release

Gaining experience and contacts in the Northern California Zinfandel growing community through the success of his Prisoner label, Orin Swift Cellars owner/winemaker Dave Phinney has gained access to some of the best Zinfandel vineyards in California. Dave recently decided he wanted to make a high quality Zinfandel and what he created did not fit the constraints of a single AVA.

The term "saldo" has many different meanings in Spanish, Italian and Portuguese. In Spanish it mainly refers to "balance on hand", and sometimes it can mean "from here and there". This wine represents the best of the best lots made by Dave from vineyards all across Northern California.

There are grapes from Sonoma, Napa, Amador, Mendocino, and Contra Costa counties. Some of these great vineyards include Monte Rosso, Eagle Point, Rockpile, Bismark, Beatty, Page Nord, Duarte, Solari, Evangehlo, Battuelo's, Tofanelli, Korte, Mable Tiedemann, Frediani, Lewers, Alta Vista, and Bald Mountain just to name a few. Dave is so committed to this concept he is now developing his own Zinfandel vineyard in Sonoma specifically for this project as well.

Winemaker Notes

The 2007 Saldo has a deep dark ruby color. It has aromas of red raspberry, ribena, campfire, toast and sweet vanilla. On the palate there is wild strawberry, rhubarb, and sassafras. The wine is expansive with a 30 plus second finish. There is an impression of cherry pie on the end. Drink now and enjoy over the next five years.

Blend

85% Zinfandel
10% Syrah
5% Petite Syrah

California Appellation

54% Sonoma
16% Napa
15% Mendocino
9% Amador
6% Contra Costa

Suggested retail price - $28


The Prisoner


2007 Red Wine

The 2007 blends the lush berry flavors of Zinfandel, the power and concentration of Cabernet Sauvignon, the dark black fruit of Syrah, the intensity and structure of Petite Sirah, the flesh of Charbono, and a hint of Grenache - all combined for a decadent wine with great complexity.

50% Zinfandel
24% Cabernet Sauvignon
14% Syrah
9% Petite Sirah
2% Charbono
1% Grenache

We continue to receive an overwhelming amount of inquiries about "The Prisoner". Not just the wine, but the image on the label. The image is inspired by an original etching depicting a prisoner in chains Dave Phinney received as a gift from his mother and father (Orin and Swift).

Suggested retail price - $35

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Follow me on Twitter!

So Harvest 2009 has officially begun, so I don't know how much time I will have to write formal blogs. However, I do wind up having a lot of wine thoughts during the day at work, so I tend to tweet a few times a day. Follow me @emschwig for wine and not-so-wine related tweets!

Rosenblum Open House

So now it's September and I'm still catching up from my July adventures. Thankfully, there was only one wine-related event before August rolled around.

On Sunday, July 26th, I took my friend Michelle with me to the harvest open house at Rosenblum Cellars in Alameda. Having worked at Rosenblum last harvest, I was able to attend the holiday open house last November. The two events were pretty much identical, except this time around I didn't embarrass myself by dropping my glass on the floor.

Rosenblum offers very few white wines, so I sampled a Marsanne (or Roussanne?) while Michelle chose the Viogner. After our brief tryst with the whites, we moved on to the main event: Zinfandels! My plan of action was to taste only Zinfandels this time around, because that is what Rosenblum is known for and because I wanted to get a better idea of how they actually tasted as a varietal. I'd like to say it helped, but I still have a lot to work on in the realm of tasting.


Michelle receiving a pour of Snows Lake Zinfandel

About halfway through our Zinfandel journey, we stopped for some Zinfandel ice cream. Tucker's in Alameda makes this amazing ice cream using actual Rosenblum Zinfandel. This delicious ice cream is speckled with dark chocolate chips and is unique but not weird. It's a perfectly balanced ice cream and I would highly suggest it if you're lucky enough to stop by Tucker's on a day that they have it.

Michelle skipped the rest of the Zinfandels and moved on to a handful of Syrahs and Petite Syrahs which she thought she would like better. She wound up surprising herself by preferring the Zinfandels over the Syrahs. Rosenblum has a convert! Michelle left with a bottle of Snows Lake Zinfandel and Kathy's Cuvee Viogner. I still had a bottle of Lyon's Reserve Zinfandel in my collection, so I decided against a purchase this particular day.

It was a lovely July day in the Bay Area, and I thank Michelle for accompanying me to this open house at my wine "Alma Mater." Check out Rosenblum Cellars at 2900 Main Street, Alameda, CA. Their tasting room is open daily from 11-6 and all tastings are free!

Friday, August 21, 2009

Ridge Vineyards

The weekend before I started at Merryvale, Marc and I headed down to Ridge in Cupertino. It was one of the last wineries in the Santa Cruz mountains area that I wanted to get to before I moved up to Napa. It was also the last of the 3 R's known for their Zinfandels, accompanying Rosenblum and Ravenswood.

The Santa Cruz mountains are beautiful, but the wineries up there feel like they take forever to get to due to all those steep hair-pin turns. It was a lazy day, so by the time we got down there, the tasting room was only open for another hour or so. The view was beautiful, but the tasting experience was lackluster. Either our pourer was not too knowledgeable about the wines or she was just anxious to get out of there. She was a lot less talkative than most tasting room employees I've encountered. However, she did waive the $5 tasting fee for us. I wasn't impressed with Ridge so much as to buy a whole bottle, and it didn't look like I was getting a discount, but we settled on a 375 ml bottle of 2004 Lytton Spring Zinfandel (79% with 18% Petite Syrah and 3% Carignane). It's still in the bottle, in my overflowing wine rack. A review will come whenever the cork gets popped.

Grapes on the vine

View of the South Bay


Marc enjoying the view


Picnic benches outside of the Ridge tasting room

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Gene Simmons Wine Moment

So I'm watching Gene Simmons Family Jewels and he sends Shannon Tweed and her sister to a winery to represent him because they're going to make a wine for him. They're trying to brainstorm names for the wine and Shannon's sister suggests "Genie In A Bottle," but my favorite suggestion was by his son Nick: Gene Simmons Balls Wine. Classic.

No word as to when this wine will come out or what it will be called, but I will let you all know when I find out.

Speaking of musicians with their own wine labels, a little while back I ordered a bottle of Claypool Cellars (yes, that's Les Claypool of Primus fame) Purple Pachyderm, a 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. It is now in my possession and I am waiting for the perfect opportunity to open it up. It's in the queue with about 8 other wines.


The very cute Purple Pachyderm logo


Les Claypool and his winemaker Jay Meyer